When you are ready to design your alarm system layout, for installation you must first decide where to mount the alarm control. If you have an unfinished basement, you’ll drill and run the wires in the joists to the area you select for the panel. Most of the time, this will be the mechanical or furnace room.
If you are working in a single story building, you will run the cables up to an unfinished attic and
dropping the wires to the control.
If you are in a commercial application, you will be running cables over drop ceilings or along joists or possibly through exposed conduit.
If you are in a place where there is no place to run all these cables and hide them, then you are an ideal candidate for a wireless system.
You want to make sure that wherever you decide to mount your alarm control panel, you have a device like a motion detector or door contact to protect it. Leaving the control panel in an unprotected area could facilitate circumvention in the event of theft. Consider running the cables through the basement and then up to a closet in the protected area of the house. If you’re wondering “what about exposed wires in the basement? Don’t do it.” Cutting the wires would double the opening of the device to which they are directed and would cause an alarm condition if the system were armed.
If you go wireless in your system of choice, choose a central location in your home or business that will receive a strong radio signal from all protection points. Remember that even in the wireless system there are some cables that will need to be installed. Most often it is the keypad, siren, power supply and telephone line. Keep these races in mind when choosing your central location.
Provide lighting for the chosen area, as this is where you will be doing most of the installation work. Lay down a tarp and place all supplies and tools and a trash bag in this area. Over the years, I’ve learned to go to my central location to get what I need and return everything I’m not using to this location when I’m done with them, especially tools. If you don’t run an organized installation, you’ll spend half your time looking for a tool, a part, a spool of wire, etc. A tool belt is handy for tools you’ll need everywhere like new bits, tape, wire cutters, screwdrivers, B-connectors, a small spirit level, stud finder, a clean rag, etc.
You also want to clean as you go. When you finish routing each wire and installing the device that will go there, take the time to clean up and bag all the trash in your control area. Being anal is a good thing, when you’re doing a quality installation.
As you run each wire into the control room, measure where the wire will enter the hole in the control panel, then add about a foot of wire before cutting it with your diagonal cutters. Wrap a piece of light-colored electrical tape around the wire about 5 inches from the end, and write on the tape with a permanent marker or pen where it goes.
If your home or business is under construction, you may choose to pre-wire it for safety. Pre-wiring is beneficial in the ability to place each device in the exact location you want. Placing wires and outlet boxes before construction is complete depends on your ability to read architects’ plans and understand precisely where cabinets, appliances, and electrical devices will be placed. If you choose to prewire, be sure to drill your own holes in the wall studs and joists. Many lazy alarm technicians will run through electrical and plumbing holes and think they are getting away easily. The problem is that if an electrician or plumber doesn’t pass the inspection, he’ll have to pull cables and pipes to relocate them according to the inspector’s specifications. They’re not likely to worry about your cable when they do.
The best time to run wires in a pre-wire is immediately after the electricians leave and before the insulators arrive.
If you’re ready to start laying cables, let’s start with the front door. If you are going down to the basement, you will be working low on the opening side of the door. If you’re running the wires up, you’ll be working on the top of the door. Let’s use down for our example. What type of contact will you use? Surface mount or flush mount? If you’re running wires anyway, why not take the time to install recessed contacts so they’re out of the way when the door is closed? Set up your drill with a standard length 3/8-inch drill bit.
At the door frame, about 4 inches from the bottom, begin drilling at an angle toward the basement. Switch to your 3/8 inch by 12 to 18 inch long bit and continue drilling down to the basement, finally switch to your 5 foot long hanging bell bit and continue drilling until you come out into the basement. Pull the long bit out of the hole and remove it from the hole. Insert the thin end of the long bit into the hole.
Go down to the basement with a flashlight, diagonal wire cutters, tape, marker, staple gun with staples, and a spool or box of 22 and 2 gauge conductive wire. Strip the plastic off the end of the wire about 2 inches. Twist the 2 wires together and feed them through the hole in the thin side end of the long bit and twist it around itself. Go back up and pull the wire up to the hole. Tie a large, loose knot in the wire after you get it there, so it doesn’t fall back into the hole. Leave at least 12 inches above, so you can work with the wire.
Go back downstairs and start running down enough cable to reach your control panel. Staple the wires with a Type T22 industrial stapler along the joists in a neat and orderly fashion from the drop hole to the control panel. Be sure not to penetrate the wire with each staple, if you do, remove it now and re-staple. These bugs are hard to track down after you walk away. Be sure to go down the wall stud to where you will drill the back of the control panel (about chest height) and leave an extra foot or so of wire before cutting it from the reel. Mark your wire with the tape and marker several inches from the end.
Congratulations! You did your first race. Be sure to gather and return all the tools to the starting point so you know where they are when you need them.
Get your magnet and 3/8 inch recessed contact. You’ll need a drill, an extension cord (unless you’re using a cordless drill), electrical tape, and a wire cutter. Split the end of your cable and remove a small amount of plastic covering from each end. Do the same for your contact unless you have the kind that has little screws to hold the wires underneath. Twist each end of your wire to one end of the contact wire and tape it firmly and individually. After each one is done, you can wrap a piece of tape around everything tightly. (It doesn’t matter which wire goes to which wire, since it’s a circuit wire and doesn’t have a positive or negative side.) Carefully insert the wire into the hole and press the contact. Now mark the door where the magnet will meet the contact, when the door is closed. Stabilize the door and drill a 3/8″ hole deep enough to place the magnet. Repeat for each door you wish to contact. We always suggest contacting all perimeter doors.
We will post additional device wiring instructions on The Experts Know! Alarms website for your access.
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