The sliding compound miter saw tops the list of woodworking tools that can make precise, smooth angled cuts used in everything from fine cabinet work to home construction. Its lesser cousins include chop saws, so-called “cut-off saws,” and any miter saw without the slide.
Do you need a 12″ saw or will a 10″ model do? The advantages of choosing a 12″ machine over a 10″ unit are greater height and depth of cut, and generally more power. The advantage of a 10″ model is that it weighs less and costs less. If a 10″ saw can make all the cuts you can imagine in your shop or on the jobsite, choose the smaller design. Most features and overall quality will be similar or identical within a particular brand.
Obviously, features such as max height of cut, max depth of cut, power and weight will be different and you can clearly see those differences when comparing multiple machines side by side.
The obvious advantage of a sliding compound miter saw over a standard model (without a slider) is that it can crosscut wider lumber in a single pass. With or without the slide, a miter saw can make ripping cuts. A ripped cut will always give you a finer, smoother result, but on wider wood, you may need to push as well and that’s what makes miter saw slippage possible.
There are many things to look for when shopping for the best design. The saw you choose will largely depend on what you plan to do with it. If you’re looking for a permanently mounted bench saw in a woodshop, you don’t need to worry as much about size and weight. However, if you plan to transport your miter saw to and from and around multiple job sites every day, size and weight will be very important, as will a well-placed carrying handle.
Most miter saws (with one notable exception) are similarly priced and so if you’re comparing models, price shouldn’t be a consideration. Focus on the features that are most important to you because this way there can be significant differences between machines.
So what are you going to use your saw for? If you’re only going to be making repetitive crosscuts in 2 x 4 lumber, any of these machines will suffice. However, you may want to choose one with a soft start and electronic brake. If, on the other hand, you’re going to be making extremely precise cuts in expensive hardwoods or crown molding, it would seem that precision, micro-fine adjustment controls with LCD digital readout, large vertical height capability, and an excellent laser might top your list. of requirements. . Is the laser adjustable to the left or right of the blade? One model even features dual lasers, one on each side of the blade, that clearly and precisely mark the groove the blade will make before making the cut.
Other important considerations relate to bevel and miter settings. Look how far to the left and to the right these adjustments can be made. Sometimes 45 degrees just isn’t enough of an angle. Look at how easily and precisely these adjustments can be made on each of these woodworking tools. Does the unit allow micro fine adjustments? How many preset detents are there on the miter and bevel scales? Can you make a cut close to, but not exactly on a stop? Is there a miter stop override? Where are the controls and how do they work? Is everything within easy reach and easy to operate?
What kind of blade comes with the tool and what size is the hole in the arbor? If the answer is anything other than 5/8″ or 1″, you may have to purchase your blades directly from the saw manufacturer, and you may be able to find better blades elsewhere. Usually when I buy a miter saw, I discard the blade and replace it with one that will make the smoothest, most accurate cuts possible, like the Forrest Chopmaster. The extra expense is absolutely worth it if you’re making extremely precise joints in fine hardwoods or crown molding. If you are only making rough cuts in spruce for framing, you may want to consider a blade with fewer teeth and a more aggressive cut.
How is dust collection achieved with each saw? Does the port match your shop vac hose or will you have to rely on a dust bag? Will you have to buy a new vacuum to fit your new machine? What percentage of the total dust generated by the saw will be removed by the vacuum system and dust port?
Is the motor on the saw you are considering direct or belt drive? Does this model have soft start, electronic speed control or variable speed? Is the engine big enough for the jobs that will come your way? How big is the miter saw table (for stability of large workpieces)? How much does the tool weigh (for portability)? How is the cord stored when the tool is brought to the job site?
There really is a lot to think about before choosing the best sliding compound miter saw for your needs. Take your time and think it through. You’ll be glad you did!